Frankie Behira: CDT Prep

       After walking away from a project in the Philippines, I felt a strong urge to head into the mountains and unplug. The first place that came to mind was the Himalayas. After finding out that, you can still trek solo without a guide, it sounded like the perfect fit—especially since Nepal often changes the rules every year on whether a guide is required. Within a week, I was in Kathmandu—excited, anxious, and ready to disconnect. As soon as I stepped out of the airport, I grabbed a taxi to escape the city—a quick 20-minute ride to the trailhead. And just like that, I started hiking.

      At 2,500 meters, the altitude slowed me down—each step felt harder. Coming from sea level, I pushed too fast, and on the fourth day, at 3,700 meters, altitude sickness hit me. At 2 a.m., I was throwing up and couldn’t think clearly, but a Sherpa stayed with me and gave me tea until I felt better. That experience truly humbled me, and from that point on, I made sure to go slow and acclimatize properly. As I continued toward Langtang, one of the things that amazed me was how people built houses on such steep mountains. A strong sense of community is something I really noticed in Nepali culture.

 The next chapter of my journey was the Annapurna Circuit—an even tougher challenge. It felt more alpine, almost above the tree line. Each day, the air grew thinner, and I was ready to push my limits. The teahouses along the way felt like a luxury and served delicious food. One highlight was a side trip to Tilicho Lake at 5,000 meters. But the biggest test was the Thorong La Pass at 5,400 meters. I kept a steady pace, started early, and step by step, crossed the pass. It felt incredible to finish and rest afterward.

    After the Annapurna Circuit, I set off toward the Everest region. It took me four days by bus from Jomsom to Jiri, and I hated every minute of it—it was the bumpiest ride I’ve ever experienced and probably the hardest part of the entire journey. But I made it. Jiri is where it all began—this is where Tenzing and Hillary started their Everest expedition. From Jiri, I hiked to Namche, took a rest day, and then began the Three Passes Trek—despite the fear of isolation, navigating alone, and the extreme cold.

The first pass, Kongma La, was tough, especially breaking trail, but I started early, took my time, and enjoyed the 360-degree views the whole way. The next day, I headed to Everest Base Camp. The day went smoothly, and again, I was spoiled with endless alpine views. Then came the Cho La—another tough one—but I pushed through. The final pass, Renjo La, was said to be the easiest, but for me, it was the hardest. Even though it wasn’t technical, the never-ending uphill was brutal. Still, I made it safely back to Namche.

I love Nepal—this was a truly transformative experience. The people were sincere, and I deeply admired how their teamwork helps them thrive in such a harsh environment. The altitude, the cold—every challenge shaped me. This was also a rare, unique experience because, during a time of conflict and war, many flights were canceled. There were so few people on the trails, and being up there alone, in that deep solitude, made it even more special. This trek was unlike any other hike I’ve done—it was truly one of a kind.

Stats and gear

Gear