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Insulated Apparel gets funky, and even dirtbags wash their gear!
Over time, dirt, sweat, and body oils build up in your apparel. This buildup can cause insulation to clump together, creating cold spots and reducing warmth. Regular cleaning helps restore loft and maintain performance. Skipping washes for too long can allow oils and debris to break down the insulation over time.
Most apparel is machine washable but always check the care label for specific instructions before you begin. Washing and drying insulated gear requires a bit of extra care, and the process can take several hours.
Important: Please note that any damage caused by improper washing or drying is not covered under our warranty. We highly recommend following these guidelines to ensure your apparel stays in good condition.
Where to Wash Your Gear
Do not dry clean your insulated gear. The safest way to clean it is at home or at a laundromat.
Front-loading washers are essential! Always use a front-loading washer. Top-loading washers with agitators can damage your gear by shredding it.
How to Wash Your Insulated Gear
Based on the type of fill inside your gear, the wash instructions may be slightly different. Be sure to check the Care Label for the manufacturer’s specified instructions.
We recommend using a gear-specific wash to avoid any coatings coming off the gear. Using a down wash like Nikwax Down Wash (for down insulation) or Nikwax Tech Wash (for synthetic insulation) can help ensure the most successful outcome. If gear specific soap is not available, use a very small amount of a regular liquid detergent (do not use powder).
Important Note: Using too much soap will cause down insulation to clump and can prevent synthetic insulation from lofting properly, use soap sparingly! Do not add any other wash additives (oxyclean powder, down waterproofer, fabric softener, etc)
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Fully zip your apparel and make sure all pockets are closed, then turn it inside out.
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Wash on a gentle cycle and use the warmest water allowed per the manufacturer’s instructions. Some fabrics can experience damage if hot water is used, so it is important to check the tag.
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Set the washer cycle to the extra rinse setting so all soap is thoroughly removed.
How to Dry Your Insulated Gear
When drying your insulated gear, use the warmest heat recommended by the manufacturer’s care instructions. Excessive heat can melt shell fabrics, but warm air is essential to getting the down to re-loft properly and to re-invigorate any water repellent coatings. Achieving the right balance is key to ensuring your bag dries completely without damage.
For Down Fill
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Dry with the warmest heat recommended by the manufacturer: For much of our down gear that is medium heat. Dry your down gear in a large, front-loading dryer on medium heat until it is FULLY DRY. This may take several hours and multiple cycles.
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Add clean tennis balls: Having tennis balls in the dryer will help break up any clumps of down and help the insulation to re-distribute more evenly.
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Rearrange every 10-15 minutes: Don’t set it and forget it! Stick around so you can take the gear out every 20-30 minutes to fluff it and prevent any part of the shell from touching the heating element, which could cause permanent damage.
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Check for clumping: Make sure the down isn’t clumping in the baffles. If it is, it means it’s still wet and needs more drying time. If the down is even slightly damp, the down will not re-distribute evenly, and this will lead to cold spots and poor gear performance. If you notice the down is extremely uneven within a baffle, use your hands to push the down clumps into the less-filled areas.
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Ensure complete dryness: Down gear needs to be 100% dry to re-gain loft and maintain insulation performance. Ensuring the bag is dry by putting through multiple dry cycles can take 2-4 hours depending on the amount of fill and the space in the dryer! If you aren’t sure if your gear is dry or not, put it back in the dryer for another cycle just to be safe.
For Synthetic Fill
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Dry with the warmest heat recommended by the manufacturer: For much of our synthetic gear that is low heat. Dry your down gear in a large, front-loading dryer on low heat. Synthetic fill gear needs some heat to help re-invigorate any water repellent treatments on the shell.
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Hang after drying: Once dry, hang the gear for a few hours to ensure all moisture is gone. Even small amounts of residual moisture can lead to mildew growth.
Is It Done?
Before storing, check the following:
Is it completely dry?
Is it fluffy and lofted?
Is the insulation evenly distributed?
If it’s not quite there yet, repeat the drying steps as needed.
Pro-Tip: If your down gear is completely dry but still has clumping issues, try re-washing it but DO NOT use ANY soap. It is likely the down still has soapy residue on it and just needs to get a better rinse.
Frequently Asked Questions
“Why doesn’t my insulated gear feel as lofted after washing?”
Down insulation relies on trapping air between the down clusters to keep you warm. When the down gets wet, the clusters collapse and there is no place to trap warm air, and the insulation effectiveness is reduced significantly. If your down gear still feels clumpy or doesn’t look nice and puffy, it’s likely because the insulation is still wet or the soap has not been completely rinsed out. Ensuring you follow the proper washing and drying instructions. It can take time, but it’s worth the effort.
“Why are there feathers coming out my insulated gear?”
Down fill is composed of feathers and clusters. Clusters are the parts that trap air to keep the user warm but because this is a natural product, all down will have some small percentage of feathers mixed in. Feathers don’t provide insulation and won’t affect performance. While washing and drying can help reduce feather loss, shedding is a normal part of using down insulation, especially as the bag is compressed and uncompressed over time. The shedding will subside as you continue to use the gear.
Why shouldn’t I use a re-waterproofing wash additive to my gear?
Big Agnes uses DownTek PFC-Free down in all of our down products. This down is specifically treated with a water repellent finish already. Adding another type of waterproofing will cause significant down clumping and migration and it doesn’t always rinse out completely. Gear that gets washed with this type of additive will need manual manipulation to redistribute the down after washing and drying
What happens if my gear is clean, but all the down has moved into one area?
Down can move around inside the chambers or baffles and may need to be re-distributed after heavy use. Sometimes, the wear pattern of the gear can cause down to move around, for example if you always tie your jacket around your waist, the down can be pushed out of the elbow area. To remedy this, use your hands to break up the bigger clumps and push the down into areas where there is less fill. Then, put the gear in the dryer with tennis balls for at least 40 minutes to allow the down to re-distribute more evenly.